By Shenir Dennis
Having high porosity hair can be a bit deceiving, especially for those of us with strands on the tighter side of the curl spectrum (i.e. type 4). You may notice that your hair seems to “soak up” every product you put into it, almost as if it was extremely thirsty. You may believe this to be a good sign because I mean, why wouldn’t it be, right? Healthy hair should be able to absorb moisture—hair that’s resistant to it is a more obvious sign that your strands may not be as healthy.
But don’t be fooled! Many hair experts still classify High Porosity Hair as “damaged or overly processed” due to its inability to retain moisture despite its ability to absorb moisture well. So, it is especially important that those of us with high porosity hair are doing the research to find out what the best methods are for caring for our thirsty strands. This isn’t necessarily an easy feat, especially since hair porosity can depend on genetics and a variety of factors that make bringing it back to normal levels more difficult. Ultimately, the products we choose for maintenance and treatment will make all the difference for keeping our high porosity hair healthy.
What is high porosity hair?
As we know, one of the main signifiers that your hair has a high porosity is its inability to retain moisture no matter what you put into it. “High porosity” simply means that the cuticles of your strands are way more open than normal which explains why they are able to absorb moisture easily. A good way to think about how hair that is high porosity functions is with the phrase “Easy in, easy out:”
Easy in: Your hair has no issue absorbing the milks, butters, leave-ins, etc. that you put into it
Easy out: Your hair still feels dry even after everything you’ve added
You can be prone to having higher hair porosity due to genetics; however, you can also achieve this state through excessive heating (i.e. blow-outs, straightening, and other hair processing treatments), harsh combing, or certain chemical treatments like bleaching or relaxing. Some other characteristics of high porosity can include having hair that:
- Tangles easily
- Dries quickly
- Is always frizzy
Still confused on whether you have high porosity hair even after reading this? Find tips for testing your hair’s porosity in our article “What do I really need to know about my hair’s porosity?” or consult a stylist for a professional opinion.
Best Products for Treating High Porosity Hair
Cream-Based Sulfate Free Shampoos
Sulfates have definitely gained a bad rep in the hair community in recent years For those of us who already have issues maintaining our moisture balance, using a shampoo with sulfates can dry our hair out, making moisture retention even more difficult. Shampoos that are cream-based and sulfate-free should be your go-to for taking care of your high porosity hair.
Our top pick: SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed High Porosity Moisture-Seal Shampoo
Protein Treatments
High porosity hair LOVES protein treatments. Protein treatments temporarily repair and strengthen our hair cuticles. They help to fill in the “gaps” or the “openings” in the hair cuticle which is essential for highly porous hair. Our cuticles are already way too open, so it’s easier to let moisture out. Adding a protein treatment to your routine once every few weeks will definitely bring life back to your hair and help your hair retain its moisture for longer.
Our top pick: Sof N’ Free Gro Healthy Nothing But Intense Healing Mask 16 oz
Oils
If high porosity hair can’t retain moisture well, it needs something that can help to seal in that moisture like oils. Olive oil, Jojoba oil, or products that contain a high amount of them work especially well for sealing in moisture after washing your hair or putting in a leave-in.
Our top pick: Palmer’s Conditioning Spray Olive Oil
High Porosity Hair Care Tips From the Pros
We reached out to one of our participating stylists, Jasmine a.k.a. “Jazzee” Santiago, a Hair Care and Texture Expert based in New York City, for some tips on taking care of hair with high porosity! The following is a quick run-down of what she shared with us:
If you are interested in booking her services after reading these tips, check out her profile to get started!
Tip #1: Handle With Care
It is extremely important that we are treating our strands with kindness when we have high porosity hair. Jazzee notes that high porosity hair is prone to breakage and will dry out very easily, so remaining patient and being gentle is the best way of taking care of it. That means being mindful of things like the way we are combing our hair, how frequently we are applying heat, and what products we are using is key. Protective styling can also be a hit or miss too: if left in a protective style for too long, our hair will begin to dry out more, leading to further damage of the cuticle. We all get frustrated with our strands from time to time, but they still deserve our TLC. Thus, Jazzee reminds us that we need to “Be engaged and have a positive relationship and routine with [our] hair,” if we want to actually see real improvement over time.
Tip #2: Avoid These Products
Silicone-based products, parabens, and products containing ingredients such as sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate are what Jazzee says people with high porosity hair should “definitely” stay away from. Using silicone-based products makes it much more difficult to retain moisture as silicones often cause “build up” on the hair cuticle. Sodium laureth or lauryl sulfate are what causes our shampoos to lather and become sudsy; however, Jazzee notes that this can cause stripping and drying of the hair follicles (which is definitely what we DON’T want with highly porous hair). She suggests that EVERYONE avoid parabens (preservatives found in many hair products), however, as “they can penetrate the skin and cause serious hormonal disruption.”
Tip #3: Have a Weekly Routine
Jazzee reminded us of the importance of sticking to a weekly routine for hair care. In particular, a routine that “…implements hydrating and conditioning treatments (i.e. masks, deep conditioners, protein treatments)” and “quarterly haircuts” that “…help to maintain your hairs health.” Having a routine is especially important if you think you have high porosity hair because it could be that you aren’t getting haircuts often enough or you are experimenting a bit too often rather than sticking to a plan. Jazzee customizes hair care regimens according to her clients needs and helps them create a routine that complements their porosity and damage levels. After all, she says, “When you have a plan or routine in all things, the results are usually beyond great!”
Now you’re ready to treat your high porosity hair with care. But remember: treating your high porosity hair won’t necessarily be a quick fix—it’s important to set realistic goals for your treatment and be patient with your hair as you continue to learn more about what it likes best. You may make mistakes or feel hopeless about improving, but we are here to tell you that you got this! Don’t let seemingly untameable strands get the best of you.
But most importantly, WE got you! If you are interested in connecting with a stylist in your area to understand your hair’s porosity, search for stylists here.