Ask A Stylist: What do I really need to know about my hair’s porosity?

Knowing and understanding your hair porosity—how your hair absorbs and retains moisture—can be extremely helpful when choosing which products to use to achieve the best styling results. Here’s what master stylist Tina Pearson, owner of the Tina Pearson Salon in Edgewater, NJ, says you really need to know about porosity.

First, determine your hair porosity.

The “float test” is a common way to determine your hair’s porosity level. Simply put loose strands of hair in a cup of water and leave it for a couple of minutes. If it floats, you likely have low porosity. If it sinks, you have high porosity hair. If you don’t want to go it alone, just ask a stylist at your next appointment: “In the salon, we can identify the porosity by simply touching the hair or spraying it with water,” says Pearson.

…but know that porosity isn’t everything.

Texture, elasticity, density, and porosity all determine how our hair will perform and look once it’s styled, points out Pearson. In other words: Just knowing your hair’s porosity, while helpful, isn’t enough. And while porosity is somewhat based on hair health, it’s mostly determined by genetics. And keep in mind: Different sections of hair can hold different porosities based on the use of heat or chemicals in the past.

There’s a right way to add moisture.

Porosity levels can be kept in check with regular haircuts and trims and maintaining proper hair care overall, says Pearson. Here are her suggestions for product application, but you’ll need to do some experimenting to see what works for your individual texture and lifestyle:

Low Porosity: When conditioning, always use heat to allow the product to penetrate.

Normal Porosity: Implement regular deep conditioning to maintain normal product absorption.

High Porosity: Hair should be soaking wet when applying conditioners. Also, layering the right products can be beneficial. We love our Vanilla Conditioner for high porosity levels, especially. It has the ability to detangle, treat, repair & nourish strands. It’s also paraben and sodium chloride free.

Don’t overthink it.

It’s great we have so much information available at our fingertips. However, it’s most important to be able to get a handle on your unique situation: “My hair does this when…” and “My hair performs best when…” “Once you answer those questions, you’ll develop a healthy routine that works for you,” says Pearson. “We shouldn’t get so caught up in porosity levels, hair type numbers, etc. A weekly regimen that works for you is important to develop. Once you determine how your hair performs its best, continue those practices regularly.”

Want to get styled by Tina? Check her out here!

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